Beyond Coronavirus: Tapas, Music, Dance and Summer Nights
We have almost reached the stage where the news is banned in the house. Listening to a relentless round of negativity from alleged bullying by cabinet ministers, lowering economic forecasts, businesses failing and Coronavirus, it’s very hard to not allow everything to become too much.
We are doing our best to remain positive, but there is no doubt that Coronavirus is having and will continue to have an impact on travel and tourism, and as tourism is a key ingredient to our lives here, that is bound to be of concern. We are also concerned that so many of our friends and family live in high density areas that have seen instances of the virus.
One thing that can safely be said for our corner of Andalucia is that it is far from being high density. In fact, the emptiness of Spain is a hot topic here right now, and the depopulation of rural areas is becoming increasingly alarming. When you consider a country the size of Spain, and realise that 53% of that land mass is occupied by only 5% of the entire population, you can appreciate the scale of the problem. Rather than villages dying, it is the residents of these villages that are dying and not being replaced. 48% of municipalities across Spain have a population density of less than 12.5 people per square kilometre.
Whilst this is a positive thing when it comes to a grim reality such as Coronavirus, it does present all sorts of other issues for society here as a whole.
Sustainable, cultural tourism is a key factor in the strategy to try to staunch this haemorrhage and breathe life back into rural economies. I had a conversation recently with one of our friends in the village, a young woman who came to live here to be with her partner whose family has been here for generations. Andrea, the young woman, expressed genuine concern that there is nothing for young people in the village any more. There is no reason to buy property, or remain living in the small villages as there is no work. Young people move to the larger towns and cities out of necessity, simply to be able to find employment and earn a salary. At the other end of the generational scale, the grandparents are gradually dying out and not being replaced by the generations beneath them. In Andalucia, the main rural employers are agriculture and a bit of construction with tourism coming some way behind.
There are many emerging schemes, being launched primarily by non-Spanish people (although not exclusively) trying to drive new tourism initiatives that involve the local populations and reignite interest in these beautiful areas. I read today about a Spaniard who started an International Opera Festival in the tiny village of Medinaceli (regular population of only 700 people), and we have a friend who launched the Me Vuelves Lorca festival of music and theatre in the equally tiny village of Laroles, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. It is frustrating that there are many other such initiatives, but there doesn’t yet seem to be a strategy to link them all together to galvanise this cultural tourism movement.
Andrew and I think, and hope, that what we are trying to do with our cultural and creative holidays through Granada Concierge will help in some small way to create opportunities for the local area. We have ideas for the future that will fit in with the strategy for sustainable tourism in and around Granada, but I doubt anything will happen quickly.
In the meantime, we can but support everything that is being done to foster the culture and creativity in the area. Granada is a wonderful city filled with art, music, culture, dance, food and so much more, but it doesn’t seem to be very good at getting the message out beyond the borders of Andalucia. So, to help a little, we thought we’d list our favourite events that are scheduled over the coming months.
Top Cultural Events in Granada 2020
10th - 27th March - XII Concurso Granada de Tapas.
If you like tapas, wine and/or beer, you really need to be in Granada for this festival of all that is good about tapas. This year, 58 bars and restaurants are taking part. This is fewer that in the previous two years, and to maintain an event such as this, it does need support. Last year, it has to be said, the organisers changed the format slightly, and it wasn’t quite as customer-friendly, but who cares at the end of the day? The tapas that are created by the participating bars are, in many cases, absolutely delicious - creative, aesthetically exciting and just plain yummy. What could be better than planning a journey around Granada on foot, armed with a map, stopping off at the competing bars to sample their entry?
Come and stay with us, even if we are not officially open until 1st April, and we can take you on a jaunt around some of our favourite places.
5th - 12th April - Semana Santa.
Easter Week in Spain is a big deal, and Granada becomes all-consumed by the religious processions throughout the week. However, it is not all about the religious significance of Easter Week; to us, this is a festival of community, families coming together, the prospect of Spring after a cold winter, optimism, and unity.
I am skipping one or two festivals, and the feria, as I have written about them in previous blog posts, but you can see more on our website at
25th June - 12th July - Granada Festival
or, to give it its full name, the Festival Internacional de Música y Danza de Granada.
This festival deserves far more international recognition, as it is such a beautiful 3 weeks, attracting some important performers and with such an eclectic mix of music and dance. Spanish roots are never lost, but these are combined with ballet from Russia, exquisite choral music from the world’s best choirs and this year the 250th Anniversary of Beethoven’s birth will be marked significantly.
The Festival is swiftly followed by the Festival Internacional de la Guitarra de Granada, normally running from mid-July to mid-August. If you want magic, then these two festivals are essential. The venues are stunning, steeped in history, and sitting beneath a warm night sky while rich and evocative music drifts and swirls around you is a truly memorable moment. Highlights for us have been the two opening performances of the Guitar Festival, outside the Cathedral in central Granada, and sitting in the circular patio of the Palacio de Carlos V, in the Alhambra Palace, listening to the choir, The Sixteen, perform Monteverdi’s Vespers. We have heard Gregorian Chant in the glorious surroundings of the Monasterio de San Jeronimo, and heard 15th Century Lute music performed in a palace where such music would have been familiar 700 years ago.
Finally, late summer sees Lorca y Granada en los Jardines del Generalife, a theatrical celebration of aspects of the life of Granada’s most famous poet and playwright, Federico García Lorca. Again, it is difficult to describe a more magical setting than that of the Generalife open-air theatre, on top of the Alhambra hill. Magnificent cypress trees soar above the auditorium, and warm late summer air and inky night skies envelope the audience.
So, a new season is almost upon us and Coronavirus is already playing havoc with the travel industry, economic forecasts and the lives of many individuals. But it’s important to remember that there are so many other aspects of life that are endlessly challenging and affect a great many more people. Take every necessary precaution, keep safe and well but do come out here, to this underpopulated, glorious, rich, exciting, evocative country and lose yourself in something magical this summer.
